Now that we have gone through the tools that may be helpful, it’s time to try our hands at eyeshadow placement!
First, remember the primer talk? Priming your eyes with an eyeshadow primer will make everything show up and hold up much better. Besides your lids, it’s a good idea to dab a little in the inner corners and along the lower lash line (particularly around the outer corners, since that’s where what you have on the lower lash line will most likely begin to smudge).
(This demo is done with Chanel Harmonie du Soir from last year’s holiday collection. I chose it because the shades are sufficiently different to show clearly in photos. Please feel free to use whatever you want!)
Second, dab your paddle brush (I also use MAC 217 for this) in the eyeshadow, and place it on the inner half of your lid (I usually do the inner 2/3). There really is no rule as to what eyeshadow you should go for. I personally prefer shimmery eyeshadows for this purpose, as I find them brightening and making me look well-rested.
Third, place a darker shadow on the outer half (or in my case, outer third). Keep the edge of the shadow below, or along your socket line. You can stop here to blend everything out and call it a day, or you can also define your outer v.
The first part of the outer v follows the imaginary line extending from your lower lash line. Angle your brush that way and lay the color down. The second part of the outer v connects the first part to the edge of the shadow you have in your outer half. Here I also ran a bit of the outer v color along the outer half of my upper lash line.
Exactly how far should you bring the color in? If you look at the picture on the left, you might notice that I prefer to keep the darker shades to the outer third of my lid. When I look straight ahead, I want the darker colors to stay on the rim of my iris. You can bring it a bit further if you wish, but generally speaking, try not to blend it over the imaginary line extending from your pupil. Especially if you want your eyes to appear rounder and brighter, overwhelming the center of your lids with darker colors doesn’t help you achieve that purpose.
Now the colors have been laid down, let’s blend (I use 217 for this)! The goal is to create a smooth gradient instead of leaving the blocks of colors as they are. If you would like more intensity, you can always go back to add some more of the darker shades (before you blend them out again).
Last but not least, don’t forget to highlight! I systematically highlight my inner corners (with MAC 219). It brings more light to my eyes and makes them appear rounder.
We’ll discuss eyeliner and mascara later, but basically you’re done with eyeshadows here! Before I show you another placement that I do often, don’t forget you can always use a cream shadow or shadow stick as a base! As long as you remember to buff the edges out, you’re good to go!
Now the second type of placement I do might be even easier.
First, choose a shade. I would say anything that is mid- or mid-to-dark toned would work (I’m using Rouge Bunny Rouge Abyssinian Catbird here). Lay that shade down all over your lid.
Buff out the edges!
Take your blending brush and dab it into a shade that is a bit darker than your skin tone (you can also use a much darker shade if you want your look to turn out very intense). Blend that shade into the outer v area that we talked about. If the lid shade of your choice doesn’t blend out so easily, you can always run a blending brush with a matte shadow that’s around your skin tone along the edges. This is a good trick if you accidentally took your eyeshadows a bit higher than you wanted to!
Highlight your inner corners with a shade that coordinates with the lid shade (I picked the coppery gold that I used as my lid shade for the first demo). Pick some of the color up with your paddle brush, and place it in the center of your lid. This will help brighten your eyes some more and create dimension!
A little eyeliner (I’ll explain everything next time) later…
You’re done! Easy peasy! You can get a lot of drama if you use darker shades, especially on the outer corner. Here is an example of a this placement with different eyeshadows.
That’s it for today! Please let me know if you have any questions, and I hope this is helpful!
Sunny, your beauty culture translator xx