I call it serendipity when the new Lisa Eldridge tutorial and *Dior Smoky Design 5 Couleurs Designer landed on the same day. I didn’t have high hopes for this mixed-medium palette with a grey color theme, but it is the ideal partner-in-crime for creating a sparkling grey smokey eye!
After last autumn’s 5 Couleurs reformulation, Dior recently revamped the Diorshow Mascara as well as the 5 Couleurs Designer palettes. There are 6 of these to choose from. They feature a powder base, a gel liner, two eyeshadows, and a sparkling highlighter (so yes, it is a mixed-medium palette). Dior calls it an “all-in-one professional eye palette.” Theoretically, you should be able to create sculpted eyes with a gradient effect in 5 simple steps.
Much like the new 5 Couleurs, 5 Couleurs Designer is now housed in a slimmer compact. It comes with two duo-ended applicators (two sponge ends, one eyeshadow brush, and one eyeliner brush).
Smoky Design (008) packs a matte white base with visible shimmer, a silvery grey eyeshadow with a metallic finish, a steel grey with a satin finish, and a black gel liner. The highlighter looks like a pale grey in pan, but on the skin it’s more or less a clear base with micro-glitter.
I am going to say this in a blunt way: unless you prefer sheer eyeshadows, you wouldn’t be happy with the look you can get from using Smoky Design in the way it is designed to (check out the Dior tutorial here. Is it just me, or is the finished look of Navy Design also quite sheer?). The silvery grey in the center performs OK, but the primer as well as the steel grey have a drier texture. The gel liner is pretty intense, and I have to say the highlighter exceeds my expectations: there is very little fallout during application, and it stays put once it’s on the skin. For a micro-glitter in a clear base type of eyeshadow, it is extremely easy to work with.
Dior Smoky Design 5 Couleurs Designer swatch:
As you can see, underwhelming is probably the best word for the context. However, if you use the gel liner as a base for a smokey eye, things do work out really well!
Here is the result I got from following the steps of the Lisa Eldridge tutorial (minus the silver leaf because I don’t have any):
For a quick recap, I first buffed the gel liner in the palette all over my lid as well as over my lower lash line with a brush (you can use your fingertip, but since it is actually a liner, it’d be very VERY intense that way) before layering the silvery grey on top. I lined my upper and lower lash/waterlines with Dior Pro Black Diorshow Pro Liner, patted the highlighter shade onto the eyes as well as in my inner corners, and smoked out my lower lash line with the steel grey. I finished the look by lightly filling in my brows and grooming the hair into place with the transparent Dior Diorshow Brow Styler Gel, as well as adding a couple of careful coats of Dior Diorshow Mascara (review coming soon).
The gel liner holds up well over a primer as a base. If I really look, I can see it lightly creasing around my inner corners after 7 hours, but it’s the type of thing only I can see if I really look (with my monolids, that part of the skin is literally invisible). The glitter stays in place, and I have no issue with the eyeshadows whatsoever.
Here is the finished look in context:
As per Lisa’s instructions, only a small amount of foundation (Dior Diorskin Nude Air Serum) and powder (Dior Diorskin Nude Air Loose Powder) was used. I put a bit of the highlighter on the top of my cheek bones, added a bit of bronzer (Dior Diorskin Nude Air Tan Powder in 002 Amber) to contour, and applied Dior Spring Ball Addict Extreme to my lips (this shade has been discontinued. The most similar one in my stash is Estee Lauder Suggestive Pure Color Envy Shine).
I have to admit I really like the result. Smoky Design is the perfect one-stop shop for such a smokey eye. To my amazement, it doesn’t look too heavy to me, nor does it make my eyes appear smaller (I am going to assume it’s the highlighter doing its job). However, if I were to evaluate the palette objectively, I think there is room for improvement. I absolutely see what Peter Philips is trying to do here. There is place in every woman’s makeup stash for a good tone-on-tone eyeshadow palette with basic colors that could enhance the eye color. With that said, I wish the texture/color payoff were better. Smoky Design is not as versatile as I would like a palette to be because the shades look faded without a substantial base.
Have you seen the new Dior 5 Couleurs Designer palettes? What was the last look you recreated from a tutorial?