In the last installment of our monolid trilogy, we are going to focus on eyeliner. I am not ashamed to admit I am an eyeliner addict. I think it adds a lot to my eyes, and I hope what I have figured out along the way will be helpful to you, too!
In the second part, we went over eyeshadow placement and stopped here:
Again, personal preferences play an important role here. I would say gel liners are good bets, as you can use them both on your upper and lower lash line. I don’t tend to use pencil liners on my upper lash line, and not all liquid eyeliners stay put on me. Nowadays many drugstore brands carry good, reliable black gel liners. Why not try one?
I know the general consensus about eyeliner is “slowly building the line up.” While I did my fair share of this, I have also come to realize it might not always be the best way to go. I would say before you figure out how you want to wear your eyeliner, you should experiment. However, once you have an idea, I find it easier to go right ahead. A useful tip? Make sure your brush is properly coated with the product. If there isn’t enough, chances are your line is not going to turn out crisp and clean (and you risk making more mistakes trying to even it out).
Here’s what I do: I coat my Bobbi Brown Ultra Fine Eyeliner Brush with gel liner, and I lay it down horizontally. I have a “crease,” or something that resembles a crease, and I know that’s roughly where I want the line to be. I begin by wedging the tip of the brush into my innermost corners before drawing a line straight across my “crease”:
This is probably the scariest part, but all you need is the courage of your conviction. Once it’s done, the rest is easy as pie! You only have to fill in the gaps on your waterline, between your lashes, and the part between your lash line and this line. Once you’re done, it will look like this:
You can line your lower lash line with a pencil liner if you want, but here I dotted a line with my brush when there isn’t a lot of product on it. If you want to line your lower lash line with a gel or liquid liner, remember to dot instead of really drawing a line. That will most probably turn out looking quite harsh. Do note how I left the part that has been highlighted alone as well (I basically stop where there is no eyelashes). If you line all the way in, you risk closing your eyes instead!
Many have commented on how the line disappears when they open their eyes. Don’t worry, it’s normal! Even though you don’t see the line with your eyes open, you will definitely still notice how much more defined your eyes look with your waterline and lash line filled in. With my eyes, I’ll practically have to cover half of my lid with the liner for it to show with my eyes open! While it’s definitely possible if you’re aiming at more drama, I am not sure how practical it is for everyday life.
Take your pencil brush back out, dip it in a darker shadow, and run it along your lower lash line. You can leave everything as it is (this is how my eyes look when I don’t wing my liner out), add some mascara and call it a day! See, it’s not that hard! I would love to show you how I work with my lower waterline as well, but unfortunately I have yet to find an eyeliner that will a) stay more than 20 minutes and b) not irritate my eyes, so we might have to skip that part.
Now, how about a little wing?
You might already know the wing follows the same angle as your lower lash line. This is also why I advise you to get your lower lash line done (lined and smudged) before you begin drawing the wing. It is much easier to see where it should go that way!
Again, let’s get the scariest part done first! Take your eyeliner brush and draw a line on the edge of your outer corners following the angle of your lower lash line. You can basically do a happy dance after it’s done, because this is the hardest part!
Proceed to connecting the upper edge of the line to the mark you just made.
Fill in the blanks and you’re DONE (this is how my eyes look with winged-out eyeliner)! I know it’s easier said than done, and you will have to spend quite some time practicing. If it’s any consolation, in the beginning I must have spent 20 minutes each time doing my eyeliner! I am pretty clumsy, and I still make mistakes, but there will come a day when winging your eyeliner out ceases to be a humongous task, I promise!
A useful trick for beginners: remember that pencil brush you have? If your line doesn’t turn out as crisp or straight as you want, dip it in some really dark eyeshadow (doesn’t have to be a black. A very dark brown/gray will do) and run it over the eyeliner. It will help mask the imperfection!
Now give your eyelashes a good curl, put on a couple of coats of mascara (and really, try an eyelash primer. You will be amazed), and you’re done! Most of the time I curl my eyelashes and put the eyelash primer on before I even prime my lids, because I don’t like to get eyeshadow/eyeliner all over my curler (I talked about this here). Just in case you are also a neat freak, give this a try!
This is the end of the monolid trilogy. I hope you have picked up some ideas, and that you have found it helpful! Again, please don’t hesitate to leave a comment/write me an email/tweet me if you have more questions!
Sunny, your beauty culture translator xx